Sony DSC-WX10

My parents got this camera a few weeks ago. Despite having access to this camera for a while, I’ve only just got round to taking some ‘real’ photos with it. I’ve already tested it in poor lighting conditions on full auto (green) mode here. On that page I show how this camera has a nice wide angle lens with good zoom capability and strong low light performance.

In summary, it takes good photos with no effort. One thing you notice straight away when using the WX10 is that the build quality is not as good as it’s predecessors. My W7 had a ‘metal-alloy’ shell and the W300 a titanium one, the WX10 is plastic and the buttons feel cheap too. Do I think it’ll fall apart? No, but it is a step backwards.

The WX10 is packed full of features I personally have no use for, like HD video recording and 3d panorama sweep. Both great features to have (so ideal for my parents) but I couldn’t be bothered to test them out here. There was one feature I wanted to share and that is the built in HDR within the scene selection. It works well and will make a huge difference to holiday shots in cathedrals and other ‘difficult’ light environments.

Built in HDR demonstration

Testing built in HDR

Clear improvement with the HDR mode

The camera was positioned pointing predominantly at the sky for both shots (as seen) and metering set at default (multi position). The shot of the left was taken on full auto (green) mode and on the right on HDR mode (via SCN). 

I’m impressed at the results, the camera only took a second or two to save the picture. A lot less time than it takes to edit a RAW shot from a DSLR to get the same end photo. The detail on the under side of the trees is much more clearly visible.

Worth noting that these photos, other than being aligned and cropped, are untouched. 

 

Sony DSC-WX10Sony DSC-WX10Sony DSC-WX10

 

I rushed taking these photos and unfortunately due to the dim light, the photos are all a little fuzzy. Although tempting to blame the Canon 450D for sucking in low light, it was because I was meant to be catching a train so didn’t get the flash out! Anyway, you get the idea…

Quick Stats

  • 16.2 Megapixels
  • 7x Optical Zoom
  • 24mm (35mm equivalent) wide angle
  • ISO 3200
  • Continuous Shooting for 10frames at 10Hz or 2Hz
  • Sweep Panorama
  • 1080(50i, Interlace) Video Recording (& 720p 30fps)
  • Carl Zeiss lens

Sample Images

Also on Flickr in original sizes.

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Playing With Light 2

Following on from Playing With Light 1, I decided to take more pictures to highlight the difference playing with part 2 and 3 makes to your photos.

Changing the background of the picture

The addition of pink paper behind the subject cleans up the background

The background to this photo wasn’t particularly messy to begin with, a range of greys and blacks. The addition of the pink paper makes the scene feel more isolated.

 
Lighting Comparison badgers

Badger Scene

The badger scene is a good example of how different types of flash effect the final photo. In natural light, the photo feels a little washed out as the camera increased exposure to reveal the darker areas (this clearly could be corrected by flicking onto manual). The shadows help to show the shapes of the badgers.

With the camera flash you lose a lot of the natural shadows that helped show the shapes and sizes of the objects. At the same time you are gaining dark shadows directly behind the objects which I find reduces the contrast with the background.

Finally, the off camera flash also removes the natural shadows but creates equally helpful new ones which help show the sizes/shapes of objects. The flash throws enough new light on the scene that the camera exposure is reduced allowing for easier handheld shots and more vivid colours.

 
Lighting Comparison flies

Dead Fly

This fly example simply reinforces the points I’ve just made. Natural light has good shadows but lacks pop. The camera flash has plenty of contrast and good colours but the new shadows on the background make the edges harder to see. The external flash is clear and has the benefit of a new dramatic shadow thanks to the light coming from a low angle.

 

Below are a few of the final images from my mini, playing with light, photo sessions (on Flickr):

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[Fixed] Flickr Photos Broken!

All my integrated Flickr photos are down! Actually the plugin was breaking my site so has been disabled till I find a fix. Annoying, as that plugin was one of the few I have used that I could get on with  🙁

Update: No idea how to fix the problem so instead I found a solution which removes the need for the broken plugin.

I was using Flickr Manager but the image links seemed to be merging into one and corrupting entire pages! I found another plugin called Flickpress although on the surface it did everything I needed, it couldn’t actually import pictures into my posts. However, it was able to import my Flickr photos into my WordPress gallery allowing me to simply add the images as if I’d uploaded them from my computer. Although not a fast solution to implement it is very reliable (no plugin is needed to display the images).

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Playing With Light 1

Photography is all about catching light (literally) and yet I have never played about with lighting in any depth before. I’ve played with every setting on all my cameras but that is only part of the story.

In my opinion, there are three parts to taking pictures:

  1. The light before the subject
  2. The subject
  3. The light after the subject (to the camera)

So with a typical outdoor photo that might include:

  1. Light from the sun
  2. Hits a landscape/person and is reflected
  3. Position the camera to catch the light 

Where am I going with this?

I think when anyone takes a picture they are playing with part 3. By playing with camera settings etc you enable yourself to capture the light more effectively.

Interacting with the subject before taking the picture is playing with part 2. This might consist of telling someone to smile or describing a precise pose. Alternatively, it might be cleaning/moving something to get a better photo. So part 2 again isn’t necessarily demanding.

If you are outside you would normally use the sun to light up your subject or if it’s dark/inside you may use flash. Since getting an external flash for my DSLR I have been able to tinker with part 1 by bouncing light off the ceiling/walls onto the subject. Compare this to a photo studio where there are carefully positioned lights everywhere! Playing with part 1 is a great way to change the look/feel of photos.

Mini comparison of flash lighting

comparison between different flash types

The photo is of a peacock feather with sunlight coming from the near right. The picture without flash lacks contrast due to the bright background and lack of shadows.

The camera flash and external flash with diffuser look best as they have added enough shadow for increased contrast and enhanced colour. The external flash is raised from the camera lens which makes the light non-centred, noticeable without the diffuser at this short range.

Although bouncing the flash off the ceiling or wall normally adds improved shadows, this is not always ideal especially due to the feather leaning forward casting itself in shadow!

The bottom right image (where the flash is not attached to the camera) adds a strong light from the bottom left which completely changes the look of the photo. Although in this case it adds too much shadowing,  it does change the colours from all the other examples.

The following photos were taken with the same off camera flash position:

 

The major benefit I noticed with the off camera flash is that I can get close to the subject without the light changing or casting my own shadow onto it (often the case with sun lit macro shots). The major downside is that I kept blinding myself with the flash… #amateur.

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